A brooch or pin was initially referred to as a “fibula”, and was intended to be a non-decorative, strictly practical fastener of two or more materials (usually clothes). The first brooch, of ancient Rome, was called the spina, which was like a thorn, and that evolved to the “safety pin” style. This style has a hinge, spring, pin, and bow in the same location. Other styles include the “annular”, which is round, “pen annular”, which has a gap in the ring, and “discoidal”, which has a solid face with an uncomplicated pin and hook in the back.
The Byzantine influence on the western side of Rome introduced vibrant color, something that was quickly incorporated into the brooch industry at the time. This, along with the first use of insignia and symbols on brooches by the early Christians, ignited the evolution of the brooch from practical to ornamental.
From the ninth to the thirteenth century, Irish pen annular brooches reached their peak with the emergence of the legendary Tara brooch, an important artifact that is said to be a prime example of fine Irish craftsmanship during that time. The Tara brooch has no religious or pagan symbols on it, but was meant for the display of high social and wealth status, probably for a male.
As the Middle Ages approached, clothing became less of a necessity and more of a fashion statement. For that very reason, the brooch’s purpose rapidly changed from practical to ornamental and decorative. Precious jewels, precious metals, and symbols became increasingly popular in brooches. With this came the largely popular discoidal style of brooches, and the variant shapes and styles of brooches seen in stores today.
