Pearls have been treasured for their lustrous, creamy texture and subtle iridescent reflections since the dawn of humankind. Since natural pearls are so rare and difficult to recover from the ocean's depths, man invented the technique of culturing salt and freshwater pearls from oysters and other mollusks carefully seeded with irritants similar to those produced by nature.
# The best pearls are not necessarily perfectly round, white and big.
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# The pearls' type, size, color and roundness can vary with personal preferences and budgets. But do not compromise on the pearls very essence – their nacre and lustre!
Every pearl is unique. Its special qualities, the essence of its charm and appeal are a gift of nature. In addition to their shape, color and size, pearls have other aspects that pearl specialists have studied and compared. Jewelers can determine whether a pearl is cultivated or natural is by x-raying the pearl. If the grit in the center of the pearl is a perfect sphere, then the pearl is most likely cultivated.
The major types of cultured pearls are:
- South Sea pearls (up to 13mm)
- Tahitian pearls (up to 13mm)
- Akoya pearls (6.0-8.5mm)
- Freshwater pearls (3.0-7.0mm)
The most important factors to take into account in the value of pearls are:
1. Surface shape Pearls are cultivated in a natural environment. Most pearls have surface irregularities showing the traces of nature. Perfectly "clean" pearls are rare. Pearl shapes are normally classified in four groups:
- Round
- Off-round: Slightly round or oval-shaped
- Semi-baroque: Not round including pear, drop, egg and button shapes.
- Baroque: Very irregular shapes with a surface that is often very uneven.
Although a round pearl is very nice it is important to note that most of the world's most famous and valuable pearls are often not symmetrical in shape, sine the other grading factors are also important.
2. Nacre (pronounced nay-ker)
Nacre is an organic substance deposited layer upon layer by pearl oysters. The quality of nacre is defined by its thickness and layering. The thicker and smoother the nacre the more valuable the pearl. Good quality Akoya pearls should have a nacre thickness of about 10-15% of the diameter of the pearl and good Tahitian pearls may be up to 50% nacre. Nacre is also referred to as mother-of-pearl.
Pearls are usually harvested three years after the planting or the core or nucleus into the oyster but it can take as long as six years before a pearl is produced. The mariculture process used today for most cultured pearl manufacturing was first developed by Kokichi Mikimoto in japan in 1896.
3. Lustre The most important indication of a pearl's quality is lustre. Lustre refers to the light reflected from the layers of nacre. The higher the light reflection is intense, the higher is the lustre. Good lustre gives a lively look to the pearls. A pearl with a high lustre will be very shiny and show reflections like a mirror while a pearl with poor lustre will appear very milky or chalky. If possible try not to compromise on lustre as this feature cannot be hidden or enhanced by the jewelry mount.
4. Color Pearls come in a wide range of colors, from black, gray, brown, purple, blue, to golden, orange, pink, cream and white. Some have subtle overtones giving the pearls a complex hue. As no two pearls share exactly the same shades, it requires expertise to compose strands and pairs of matching colors. Color does not greatly affect the price of pearls as it is largely a matter of taste and personal preference. The skin tone of the person wearing the pearls is the basis for selecting the color. Some women with fair or light colored skin feel rose(pink) overtones look best and women with dark skin and olive skin find black or cream overtones look best.
5. Size: The size of the pearl greatly depends on the type of pearl. Pearls can range in size from 1mm seed pearls to large 20mm South Sea pearls with the 6 - 7.5mm being the most common. Above this size the price increases significantly with each half-millimeter. Freshwater pearls range in size from about 3.0-7.0mm, Akoya pearls range from about 6.0-8.5mm, and South Sea and Tahitian pearls can reach sizes as large as 13mm. The largest pearl recorded to-date is a 26.95mm baroque south sea pearl.
Care:
Cultured pearls contain organic substances. They need gentle care to keep their beauty.
Wipe them regularly with a soft cloth moistened with water. Do not clean pearls with detergents. Before using any cleaning agents that are designated to clean cultured pearls, check it with your jeweler.
Keep hair sprays, perfumes and other substances that contain corrosive chemicals away from pearls.
To prevent scratching, pearl jewelry should not be stored touching jewelry that is set with diamonds or precious stones. Wrap them in tissue paper, or place them separately in a velvet box or a satin pouch.
Naming pearl jewelry While most necklaces are simply referred to by their physical measurement, strings of pearls have their own names that characterize the pearls based on where they hang when worn around the neck.
- A collar will sit directly against the throat and not hang down the neck at all and are often made up of multiple strands of pearls.
- Pearl chokers nestle just at the base of the neck.
- The princess comes down to or just below the collarbone.
- The matinee of pearls falls just above the breasts.
- The opera will be long enough to reach the breastbone or sternum of the wearer, and
- A a pearl rope is any length that falls down further than an opera.
Tips for selling pearl jewelry Since pearls can not be melted and put in other shapes of jewelry they are limited by how they can be sold by consumers. Following are some good tips on how and where to try and sell your used pearl jewelry:
1. Before attempting to sell your old pearl jewelry, have your pearl jewelry appraised by a licensed jeweler or gemologist. The appraisal will give you a good idea of the authenticity, quality and value of your pearl jewelry.
2. After appraising certifying your pearl jewelry, your next step would be to look for local jewelry stores which deal in antique or estate jewelry. If your pearl jewelry is of good quality and value, an estate jeweler should be more than happy to purchase your pearl jewelry from you.
3. If you are unable to sell your used pearl jewelry at a local jewelry store, the pawn shop could be your next option. Since you pearl jewelry is already appraised, and you have a good idea of its value, you'll be better equipped to negotiate with the pawn shop on the price.
4. You could also consider selling your old pearl jewelry online to an online website which deals and trades in used jewelry, or put your pearl jewelry up for sale on an online auction house (such as eBay).
5. You could also consign your pearl jewelry sold for you by an auction house. Look for reputable auction houses which would be interested in selling your items. Remember, reputable auction houses will only deal with genuine pearl jewelry, which is of high quality.
